:: Photography Tips + Tricks : editing in Adobe Lightroom, part 3 ::

Now that I've shown you how to importing your digital images into Lightroom using the Library Module, let's go over some basics of the Develop Module. Before we get into the nitty gritty details of how to edit, we will concentrate on picking which images to edit/develop and how to create a "collection" within LR that will help you categorize those images and allow you to find them faster in the future. Remember, though, a collection is a short cut to help you find your images faster, your images will not be moved from its original place on your hard drive.

1) In the Library Module, navigate to the folder that contains the image(s) you'd like to edit.

2) Carefully survey the images, mark which ones you'd like to edit by highlighting it in the filmstrip at the bottom & hit "p" to flag it as "picked."

3) Once you have flagged your picks, click on the drop-down menu on the right, below the panel.

4) Choose "flagged" from the list & the filmstrip at the bottom will only show images that you've picked.

5) Switch to the Develop Module in the panel to the right.

6) In the panel to the left, click on the drop-down menu "Collections."

7) Click on the "+" sign. A pop-up box appears.

8) In the pop-up, select "create collection set" to set up different categories for organizing your images. I set up three major collections -- CLIENTS, FRIENDS, PERSONAL -- in order to separate my work images from my personal images.

9) Once you've created the collection sets according to your preferences, select/highlight all of the flagged images from the filmstrip.

10) Click on the "+" sign again and choose "create collection."

11) In the dialog box, give the new collection a name. Under "location", click "Inside a Collection Set" and choose the Set under which you'd like to categorize your images. Click "Create."

12) LR will automatically categorize all highlighted images into the new Collection.

13) To add more images to an existing Collection, right-click on the collection that you'd like to amend, choose "Set as Target Collection." You should see a "+" sign next to the collection if you've done it correctly.

14) Highlight the image you'd like to add to the collection, right-click & choose "Add to Target Collection."

15) Now, you are ready to edit the your images!

:: Photography Tips + Tricks: editing in Adobe Lightroom, part 2 ::

Happy Tips + Tricks Tuesday!!! Last week, I talked about the benefits of using Lightroom to edit your digital images. This week, I'd like to show you how I import my images into LR from my memory card. Of course, these suggestions are part of my workflow; others may do things differently according to their workflow preferences.

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Importing your images from the camera/memory card into your computer is the one single most important step of the LR editing process. How you organize your files on your hard drive will determine the success of your overall workflow. Be rigorous. Be consistent. Most people organize their images by the date, one folder for each month of the year (April 2014, for instance).

*IMPORTANT: Once you've imported the files into your computer using LR, changing the names of your files, changing file structure or moving the folders around on your hard drive could be potentially disastrous, since LR won't be able to find the original files. You'll end up spending hours on remapping and relocating the files in LR.*

1) To maximize the capabilities of LR, try shooting in the RAW format, instead of JPEG. Most DSLRs and some Point-N-Shoots offer RAW. The RAW format takes up more room on your hard drive, but you will have more editing options in LR.

2) Once you've opened up LR, you will be in the "Library" module by default if this is the first time you're using LR. If not, click on the "Library" tab at the upper right of your screen. Your latest edits will be on the screen by default.

3) Click on the "Import..." button at the bottom left of your screen. The import window will pop up.

4) To import files that are already on your hard drive, set the import mode at the top of the window to "Add" so you could add a file to the LR catalog, without creating another copy of it on your hard drive.

5) To import files from your camera or memory card, set the import mode to "Copy" so the files are copied onto your hard drive and added to the LR catalog. The original files stay on the camera or memory card.

6) I do not suggest using the "Move" mode because your files are moved, not copied, from one location (camera, memory card or hard drive) to another. Essentially, the file is deleted from its original location and relocated to the new location in one step. It always makes me nervous to have just one copy of anything. It's always safer to make sure that the copy has arrived at its new location before deleting the original.

7) Choose the source FROM which to import in the source panel on the left (camera, memory card or hard drive). Choose the destination TO which the files are imported in the destination panel on the right (usually "My Catalog"/hard drive).

8) Highlight the folder(s) in the source panel which you'd like to import. Check "New Photos" to import only photos that have not been imported previously.

9) Click "Import" in the lower right of the destination panel.

10) Once the import process is done, go to the Folders panel on the left -- navigate to & highlight the folder that you've just imported.

11) The unedited images will appear as a "film-strip" thumbnails at the bottom the screen. Depending on your setting, the center of the screen will either be a grid of previews or a single enlarged preview. If your setting is on grid, prepare for editing by clicking on a specific thumbnail image within the grid to enlarge it to a single preview.

You are now ready for editing! Check back next week for some basics on how to use the Develop Panel.

:: Photography Tips + Tricks: editing in Adobe Lightroom, part 1 ::

First, I'd like to thank EvolvedMommy.com for sharing my iPhonography tips and tricks in this article! As much as I love the portability of my iPhone and the one-of-a-kind look of iPhonography images, I still believe the SLR gives me a lot more flexibility. When edited with Adobe Lightroom, your images be so much more.

SOOC (straight out of camera): Canon 5D Mark ii | Canon 24-70mm L | 67mm/f2.8/ISO 800

Edited using Adobe Lightroom only, no Photoshop. I thought this moody, grainy image would be better in BW, so I custom converted it into a grayscale image, crop/straighten for better framing, increased clarity/contrast. I liked the exposure SOOC, so I did not modify it in LR.

For professionals and amateurs alike, Adobe's Lightroom has quickly become the program of choice for editing, organizing and printing digital images.

Why Lightroom, as opposed to Photoshop? LR has a lot of the capabilities of PS, with these added features (but not limited to):

1) smaller file sizes - since LR saves your edits as previews, there's no large, unwieldy .PSD files to wrangle.

2) real-time editing - the results of your edits are shown in real time, you don't need to wait for your computer to process/render your edits.

3) faster editing - the LR tools are designed in such a way that glaring mistakes, such as over/under exposure or color/lens distortion can be easily corrected within seconds.

4) more intuitive - the interface is quite different from PS, it is somehow more user-friendly and easier to navigate (in my opinion).

5) batch processing - once you've edited one image, you can process the rest of your images in the same series by syncing them to the edited image.

6) presets - similar to actions in PS, LR presets allow you to program and save a customized sequence of processes to be used in future edits.

7) batch export - once you've finished editing, you could export the images all at once into a myriad of file types using customizable settings (medium, size, resolution, water-mark etc.)

8) less expensive - instead of paying hundreds of dollars for a copy of the PS program, you can purchase a fully licensed copy of LR for less than $140.00.

Generally, I import, edit and export in LR. However, I still use PS for more intricate touch-ups and to get the finished "look" that I want. Overall, for each image, I spend about 2 minutes in LR, export it as a JPEG, and spend another 2 minutes in PS to put on the finishing touches.

Come back next week to see how to import your images into the Lightroom catalog.

:: Photography Tips + Tricks: creating a video out of your digital photos ::

Last time, I highlighted some creative ways of getting your digital photos onto paper. Today, I'd like to show you how to make a video/digital slideshow out of your digital photos.

Before we start, I'd like to mention a fun video app that will turn your so-so iPhone videos into fabulous vintage-y looking films reminiscent of home movies of the past. Similar to Instagram, the app 8mm allows you to use color/texture filters to create a old-timey 8mm digital movie in real time. Try it! It's a lot of fun.

8mm App | Nexvio

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Now, most people generally take more still images than videos. But how do you group all those images (and the occasional video) from your fabulous vacation together and share them with family and friends...digitally? The folks at Animoto has come up with a way for you to make and share beautiful video online.

Animoto - how it works

Choose from one of their beautifully designed video styles, personalize using music and text, and voila! you have a professional-looking movie that you could proudly share. You could create a FREE 30sec personal web-quality video, or choose a pricing plan that will allow you to make longer, higher quality videos.

Animoto - gallery

Other apps, such as Flipagram, allows you create beautiful, short video slideshows from photos directly from your camera roll or mobile albums. Great to use with Instagram or Camera+ images.

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You could also create similar video slideshows using iPhoto on your Mac. One of the issues I have with using iPhoto to create a video slideshow is that, depending on the number and quality of your images and the speed of your computer's processor(s), it could takes forever for the video to render. Meaning, once you've laid out the images, music and text together the way you want, the computer has to process the data in order to string them together. Another issue I have is, you have to first import your images into iPhoto, which for someone (like me) who stores all of my images on an external drive, it is a bit of a pain.

Apple iPhoto

So go on, try these out. Judge for yourself!

:: Photography Tips + Tricks: print it ::

I like sharing digital photos online with family and friends. While it is not the most private, it is a great way to stay in touch ~visually~ with the global community. This trend has now crossed over to the portrait  photography world -- more and more clients are requesting digital files. The digital format gives them the flexibility of sharing the images electronically, or having them printed them professionally/at home.

However, more often than not, most digital images don't even make it onto any sort of print medium. Instead, they take up permanent residence on your iPhone, iPad, digital camera card, flash drive, hard drive, the cloud etc. I am, unfortunately, just as guilty on this front as many of you.

There are in fact many convenient online printing services that allow you to upload your digital images temporarily, choose a medium onto which the images will be printed, and ship it to you in relatively short amount of time. Whether it's photo books or individual Instagram prints, there is something out there for everyone. While popular services such as Shutterfly and Snapfish are easy to use and relatively inexpensive, the quality is just not quite what I'm looking for.

One favorite printing service among the at home photographers is BLURB BOOKS. It offers three book-making design tools: 1) Instant Photo Books that allow you to import Instagram or Facebook images into the Blurb format , 2) downloadable BookSmart program for more customization on your computer, and 3) the Lightroom plug-in that allows you to integrate photo book design into your LR workflow. The modern aesthetic is perfect for simple, elegant books that document your life and can be displayed proudly on your coffee table. It also allows a variety of customization such as book sizes, paper quality, and paper finish. Blurb also offers soft cover books in the style of glossy magazines. Fabulous...right?! {psssttt...if you are so inclined, you could even turn these photo books back into ebooks to share online}

Blurb

Another favorite is AdoramaPix. You could not only choose from a variety of customizations, this New York City based service also offers attractive, easy-to-use templates for every taste. One really nice feature of an AdoramaPix photo book is that each page is printed on thick photographic paper. This feature gives the book a feel of substance substance and permanence. Another fantastic feature of an AdoramaPix photo book is that, when open, the books lay completely flat, allowing for panoramic spreads without gutters or seams. They also offer pre-designed layouts that are great for camera phone images. AdoramaPix also offers professional-quality prints at very reasonable prices.

AdoramaPix

If you just want a simple, no-nonsense way to create a photo book from your Mac, try making a Apple Photo Book right from iPhoto. However, while the prices are very reasonable, the quality of the books are no where near that of Blurb and Adorama.

iPhoto

For those of you who think a full-size photo book is overkill for Instagram/Camera+ images, services such as Printstagr.am will turn your camera phone images into inexpensive, flip-through, pint-sized  Minibooks.  Similarly, they will turn your images into dainty, perfectly shaped prints that you could display as a grouping on your wall or as a collection in a special bowl/vessel on your coffee table. Browse their products page for other hip products that could be used in a million different ways.

Printstagram

Printstudio

So get printing! Show off those photos!

:: Photography Tips + Tricks : common missteps people make when taking smartphone photos ::

I've talked a lot about how to take spectacular smartphone photos, but less about how to correct common missteps we make with our smartphone cameras. So today, I am going to highlight some of those booboos and show you how to avoid them.

#1: NOT WAITING FOR THE RIGHT SHOT
We've all had this moment: your daughter/son is doing something incredibly cute and you scramble to get the iPhone out of your tight jean pocket or the cornucopia you call a purse/diaper bag. You drop the phone in your haste (and possibly shattering the ever precious touch screen), pick it back up quickly, and point in the general direction of the intended cuteness -- hoping to capture the fleeting moment. Instead, you end up with a useless shot that is so blurry and underexposed that you can't even tell if you were taking a pic of your child or someone else's.

C2 having a cuddle with Scratchy Giraffe on the floor in her room. I knew this moment wouldn't last forever, so I took a deep breath, decided on a composition that would enhance this image and took the shot.

FIX: Change your mindset. Be deliberate with your shots. Take a deep breath before you point the phone at your subject(s). Think carefully about what you are trying to capture and compose your shot purposefully to enhance the story you are trying to tell. Wait for the right moment to happen -- the perfect grin, the goofiest facial expression -- then snap! away. Voila! An image of which you could be proud. For more tips on composition, see here and here.


#2: UNDER OR OVER EXPOSED
Another common mistake folks make with their smartphone cams is under or over exposure -- the images either do not have enough light (under) or too much light (over). Instead of capturing the beautiful colors of a fall sunset, the camera automatically exposes for the darker parts of the composition and we end up getting an overblown sky that is white and not at all what you intended to capture.

Our master bedroom is on the third floor of our house, at eye-level with the canopy of mature trees. When the weather is good, we are treated to a beautiful panoramic view of the sunset. In order to capture the beautiful, intense colors, I usually have to manually adjust the exposure to make sure the colors are not blown out.

FIX: While the smartphone is not as sophisticated as the dSLR when it comes to manually setting exposure, you could "fake it" by doing a little camera magic right on the touch screen. When composing a shot, take into account the amount of light and contrast in the scene. Using the above example, when taking pics of a sunset or sunrise, instead of letting the smartphone choose the exposure, tap the screen on the part of the composition that you are trying to highlight (i.e. the gorgeous purple and golden sky). A square will appear where you've tapped to show you that is where the exposure and focus are set.


#3: BORING POINT OF VIEW
The easiest thing for us to do, most times, is to take a photo where we stand -- especially if we are encumbered by 5 winter coats, a diaper bag, and a baby in an Ergo. Unfortunately, we often end up with, let's be frank, boring images.

During this crisp late Spring day, I was so enthralled by the contrast between O's fushia sandals and the neon green clover that I had to take a shot. In order to tell my story effectively, I asked O to sit down on the clover and got on a higher plane and took the shot from above.

FIX: Put down the winter coats and diaper bag. Tighten the straps on the Ergo. Get down on the ground, squat, get on your tippy toes. Shoot upwards, shot downwards, shoot sideways. Walk around and find that perfect perspective. Really look at your setting and figure out from which point of view you'd like to tell your story. Click here for more tips on finding your unique point of view.

:: Tips + Tricks: getting back in the saddle again ::

COWGIRL | ISO 1600 | 35mm | f/2.8 | 1/60 sec

I'm back in the saddle again
Out where a friend is a friend
Where the longhorn cattle feed
On the lowly jimsonweed
Back in the saddle again

~Gene Autry

After a few weeks of self-imposed hiatus, I'm back! The time off has really helped to clear and reset my brain. So here's today's Tips + Tricks (and sort of a resolution really): SLOW DOWN, CLOSE YOUR EYES, and TAKE A DEEP BREATH (or two). Even if it means ducking into the bathroom for some quiet time away from a gaggle of children who are excited to get back to school and see their friends :-) You will be the better for it.

I know with this unpredictable wintry weather, it is hard to imagine Spring is almost here. But it is not too early to start thinking about Spring Photo Sessions! Pretty pastels and darling frocks...can't wait! Sooo...email me if you'd like to schedule a Spring Signature Photo Session or stick around for more info on this year's Spring Minis.

Happy belated New Year!!!

:: Photography Tips + Tricks : the trifecta of shooting in manual mode ::

It dawned on me last night that I didn't keep my promise to talk about how to shoot in Manual mode! Although I hope you found last week's tips + tricks on ordering photo cards helpful ;-)

As I mentioned, shooting portraits in Aperture Priory mode will get you pretty awesome results with the right lens (aperture of F/2.8 or lower). However, shooting in Manual mode allows you to customize your photographic "look", which in turn helps you tell your story by strengthening your point of view. For instance, if you like airy, light, ethereal images, you would probably set your exposure slightly higher (overexpose) than what the camera's meter tells you. On the other hand, if you like dense, dark, moody images, you would probably set your exposure slightly lower (underexpose).

Remember, exposure comprises of three major elements that I'd like to call the Trifecta of Exposure: Aperture, ISO and Shutter Speed. While the Trifecta operate in different ways, their shared primary function is to regulate how much light enters through the lens and into the camera.

When I'm doing an onsite shoot with younger children, it is nearly impossible to adjust my camera settings for every single shot. So instead, I survey the environment and the conditions around me and ask myself these questions. By answering these questions (in sequence), I could then make educated guesses on how to adjust my camera settings for a particular situation:

Is the background distracting or complements the story that I'm trying to capture? How blurry do I want the background?

This is the setting that I lock down FIRST when I shoot. I'm a sucker for a creamy, blurry background. I think it highlights my subjects rather well. My lens is usually set between F/1.2 to F/2.8 for this purpose. However, sometimes you may want to rely on the background to help you tell the story. In that case, you could dial up the F-stop to F/4.0 or F/5.6 for a single subject, or up to F/8.0 for a large group of people. Remember:

Low F-stop --> wider aperture --> more light into sensor and shallower depth of field (DOF) --> more exposure and blurrier background

How much light do we have? Are we in full sun, open shade or indoors?

Once I set my Aperture value, I then try to understand how much light and the type of light I am dealing with, so that I could set my ISO to a specific value and leave it there. For instance, if I am in full sun with tons of brilliant fall light, I would opt to set my ISO at 200, or even 100 for less sensitivity and more color. If I am in open shade or cloudy condition, I would set my ISO at 200 or 400 for more sensitivity. If I am indoors with limited natural light, I would set my ISO at 800 or above for the most sensitivity. EXCEPTION: if you have a lens that will allow you to shoot wide open at F/1.4 or F/1.2, you could set your ISO lower in low-light conditions; a lower ISO will give you images less noise (dark speckles that make your images fuzzy) and better color saturation. Remember:

Low ISO --> less sensitivity --> less light into sensor --> less noise and more colors saturation

How mobile are my subjects and how fast are they moving?

As any parent knows, taking photos of moving children can be tricky to say the least. In order to capture a moving subject and still remain sharply focused, you would need to set your shutter speed at 1/125sec at the minimum, preferably at 1/250sec or higher. At a shutter speed less than 1/60sec, you will need to use a tripod in order to avoid motion blur. If you find, at this point (with the Aperture and ISO already set), you need to dial down the shutter speed to below 1/125sec, then you could adjust the Aperture to a lower f-stop or adjust the ISO to higher sensitivity. This all depends what is more important to you -- blurry background or color saturation. Remember:

High shutter speed --> shutter open for less time --> less light --> capture faster motion

Since shutter speed is the easiest of the Trifecta to change, it's the only adjustment I make when I need to adjust exposure mid-shoot. 

With practice, you could be shooting in Manual mode like a pro in no time!

F/2.8, ISO 400, 1/125sec  --> I set the Aperture at F/2.8 because I wanted to focus on the girls and the pink balloon, while at the same time include the picnic shelter beyond to tell the story in context. It was a cloudy moment during the day, so I picked ISO 400 to avoid too much noise but still be able to capture the strong colors of the surrounding foliage. Lastly, because the girls are just sitting quietly, I was able to use a slower shutter speed and keep the subjects in sharp focus.

:: Photography Tips + Tricks | ordering photo holiday cards ::

With the availability of online services such as TinyPrints and Minted, it is now easier than ever to order beautiful photo holiday cards whenever you want, and wherever you want. With thousands of expertly designed cards to choose from, you could preview each design by uploading and inserting your own digital photo(s) or professional photos from your favorite photographer.

PHOTO SUBMISSION GUIDELINES

courtesy of Minted.com

While the process seems easy enough, here are some tips + tricks to help you get the best results (as suggested by TinyPrints & Minted):

• Originals -- always upload original photos from your digital camera or from your photographer (not cropped or resized).
• Resolution -- always shoot at the highest resolution possible, and upload the highest resolution possible (but less than 25MB each).
• File format -- .jpg.gif, .png, .bmp and .tiff.
• Sharpness -- choose images that are in focus. Blurred images from poor focus and motion do not print well.
• Exposure and light -- choose images that have proper exposure and are well-lit. Dark images do not print well. Natural light is best, but preferably not in direct sunlight. If you need to use a flash, stand at least 3 feet away from intended subject. If you need some guidance, please check out my Tips + Tricks about how to find outdoor light.
• Shop early -- goes without saying, as these services become more busy closer to the holidays, and often will take longer to print and ship.
• Take advantage of free-shipping offers by shopping early.

courtesy of tiny prints.com

PREPARATION

To ensure a timely send-off of the cards once they arrive, you could do these things in advance:

• Gather all the addresses you plan to use
• Input address into the computer as an electronic list using Excel, Word, Notes etc.
• Buy address labels from Staples, Office Depot or the Paper Source etc.
• Paper Source has some beautifully shaped labels if you want something more unique.
• Download the appropriate template(s) for the address labels.
• Copy and paste names and addresses into the label templates. Print.
• Alternatively, for a more polished look, you could stock up on printer cartridges and print directly onto the envelopes. This is more time intensive, but this is my preferred method.
• For the return address (your address),  I like using a custom designed stamp from the Paper Source. There are 160+ designs to choose from. Stamp your address onto the backslap of the envelope for a clean, modern look.

• You could also order matching, pre-printed return address labels from the printing services.

I hope these tips + tricks will help you streamline the holiday card sending process and leave you more time to enjoy your holidays!

:: Simple Steps to Spectacular Holiday Photos | Huffington Post ::

Yay! BINKIES + NOSEPRINTS {PHOTOGRAPHY} is once again featured in the Huffington Post! Check out my tips on composition, as well as other helpful advice from my fellow photographers on how to take spectacular holiday photos at home.

:: Photography Tips + Tricks | {which shooting mode to use for portraits} :

After I bought my first dSLR, I read the instruction manual from cover to cover like a nerd. It was great learning about the various capabilities and limitations of the camera, but I couldn't really figure out which shooting mode(s), other than AUTO, would be better for shooting portraits. AUTO mode worked ok in settings with plenty of natural or artificial light, but when I tried shooting in low-light situations, the onboard flash would !POP! up and ruin the shot. By the way, if you don't already know this -- I despise onboard flashes. The mere swishing sound of one rearing its ugly head makes me cringe every single time.

Which mode is better for portraits then? We like the convenience that the AUTO mode offers us, but we don't like how it performs in low-light situations. We also like a creamy, blurred background that will help accentuate our subjects. So in order to shoot more effectively, setting the camera to Aperture Priority (AV in Canon or A in Nikon) mode seems like a good bet. Aperture Priority mode allows us to control the Aperture, while the camera automatically adjusts the shutter speed and ISO for proper exposure.

However, you must keep in mind that in low-light conditions, the shutter speed will often become so slow that it becomes impossible to hand hold the camera and still capture clean, sharp images (usually anything slower than 1/60 sec). In that case, you could also manually set the ISO according to your shooting condition (e.g. 200 for a bright, sunny day outdoors, or 1600+ for a dimly lit room indoors), and the camera will then only automatically adjust the shutter speed for proper exposure.

But at which aperture/f-stop value should you shoot when in AV mode? For most portraits, an aperture value of f/2.8 is more than sufficient. However, in extreme low-light conditions such as Trick-O-Treat night, you'd want to stop down the f-stop as much as possible so that the aperture is as wide open as possible. An f-stop value of 1.2 or 1.4 or 1.8, paired with a high ISO value will allow you to do marvelous things in near darkness.

What my eyes saw

What my lens saw: ISO 3200, F/1.2, 1/60 sec

Alternatively, you could also shoot at f/1.2 or 1.4 or 1.8 on a sunny day, which will allow you to set the ISO to 100 or 200 for maximum color saturation, blur out any distracting background, and capture high-speed motion at the same time. But be careful. Because the Depth of Field becomes extremely shallow at low f-stop value, focus and sharpness becomes a concern when shooting close-up portraits. If you focus on the wrong feature on the face (i.e. the nose instead of the eyes), then the nose would be sharp and in focus, while the eyes become blurry and muddy. So choose your focus point wisely; generally try to focus on the eye that is closest to the camera.

ISO 200, F/2.8, 1/500 sec

Once you've got the hang of shooting in Aperture Priority, you are only a short hop, skip and jump from shooting in full Manual mode! Next week, we will talk about how to shoot in Manual mode (it is much easier than you think) by manipulating the "Triumvirate of Exposure."

:: Photography Tips + Tricks : getting down and dirty ::

Good Tuesday morning! Not only is this my favorite time of the year, I am still riding on the high from this past weekend's Holiday Minis. It is always sooo nice to catch up with my photography family and play with the Little Ones -- some of whom I photographed for a third year in a row.

While furiously editing the mini sessions, I thought I'd take a break and share a simple tip with you that could help you take better photos of your Little Ones at home.

The most common mistake I see parents make is shooting from the perspective of an adult. Most parents shoot from the standing position down towards the level of the child. The result is a photo that is slightly distorted and probably not very well composed. Instead, try shooting at the level of the child; bend those rickety old knees (I have them as well), and lower your body and the camera to the eye-level of the child you are shooting. You will see that a seemingly mundane background all of a sudden becomes something bigger and more magical -- more like how your child sees the world around her/him. The background is now the supporting element that helps you tell a story.

Lower the camera to the eye level of your child so that you could tell the story from the child's point of view. 

There is one exception however. When you are taking a close-up shot of your child's face, it is ok to shoot from way above the child's level -- i.e. have the child sitting on the ground, looking up straight into the camera as you stand over his/her shoulder. This technique will allow you to fill the frame with his/her beautiful face without a lot of distracting background.

I hope you find this week's Tips + Tricks helpful. Check back next week for more Photography Tips + Tricks!

:: Photography Tips + Tricks: finding the light outdoors ::

I am a natural-light photographer. Meaning, I don't use artificial lighting (flash or external light source) when shooting. Instead, I rely on my low-aperture lenses and the ability to find light. Light is everywhere. Light is all around us. It just takes some patience and a lot of practice to harness its magic. It is entirely possible to shoot indoors using natural light as well, but for now we will concentrate on outdoor natural light and talk more in-depth about indoor natural light in the near future.

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MAGIC HOURS = WARM, DEWEY GLOW

Photo shot early in the morning, when the sun was very low in the cloudless sky. ISO 400, 50mm, f/2.8, 1/4000 sec. 

When possible, I try to schedule shoots early in the morning or late in the afternoon in order to shoot in the most flattering natural light possible. During these times, the sun is low in the sky, casting a warm, dewey glow on everything. Your subjects will appear flawless and almost other-worldly. There is a inherent quietness in portraits taken during these times that make them timeless and extraordinary.

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FULL SUN  = BACKLIGHTING

Photo shot around 10:30AM in full sun. ISO 200, 50mm, f/2.8, 1/2000 sec.

Before I picked up my first dSLR and learned the tricks of the trade, I loooved shooting in full sun in the middle of the day. I thought: "I'm getting beautifully saturated colors and everything looks happy and bright." Now I think: "Ugh, this sun is too bright, my subjects are going to look like Dracula, with intense, black shadows all over their faces." The truth is, shooting in full sun that is high in the sky does give your photos the best color vibrance and saturation. This is because in bright light, you can set your ISO very low (200 or even 100 on a crisp autumn day), which will give you the best possible color saturation. However, on the flip side, you now have an intense light that highlights every flaw, increases contrast, and casts horribly unflattering shadows.

Instead, try shooting INTO the sun, with the back of your subject to the sun -- hence the term backlighting. Backlighting can be tricky, but by keeping a few tricks in mind, you could achieve a beautifully colorful look without all the negatives. First, meter to the skin on your subject's cheek. Then adjust your settings for proper exposure. I'd recommend setting your ISO at 200 or 400, setting the f-stop at 2.8 or 4.0 for a creamy background bokeh, and a very fast shutter speed to compensate for the low ISO and f-stop values. Sometimes, when you shoot into the sun, you will get a dreamy, hazy look across the image. Most people love this look; but if you like a cleaner, sharper look, shoot into the sun, but make sure that the sun itself is actually not in the frame.

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CLOUDY / OPEN SHADE = EVEN LIGHTING W/O SHADOWS

Photo shot around 10:30 AM in full, open shade. ISO 400, 50mm, f/2.8, 1/200 sec.

Believe it or not, a cloud-covered day is a natural-light photographer's friend. A cloudy day allows you to shoot outdoors in the middle of the day without harsh shadows. The light filters through the clouds and is distributed evenly across the environment. If you have to shoot outdoors in the middle of the day, a cloudy sky could be your friend. On the other hand, if you are shooting on an extremely sunny day, look for shady areas that are completely in shade (full open shade) -- meaning, no dappled spots of sunlight filtering through leaves that could cast strange shadows onto your subjects. Preferably, your shady spot is surrounded by light-colored walls or cover that will act as reflectors that will bounce even, natural light onto your subjects. If your shady spot is under a tree, make sure you meter to the skin on your subject's cheek and expose accordingly; also, make sure you compensate during processing/editing for any green tint that may be casted onto your subject's skin from the trees/grass. Another issue to be aware of is: there may not be as much contrast as you'd like between your subject and the background, something easily fixable during processing/editing.

All of the above images were taken on-location, during a scouting trip to this year's mini session venue. We have a jam-packed day waiting for us this Saturday. I can't wait!!! If you cannot make it this Saturday and would like to take advantage of the Holiday Minis, please email me so that I could put you on a list for a possible second Holiday Mini date.

:: Photography Tips + Tricks: how to take great holiday card photos ::

Greetings! As we draw closer to the Holiday Season, it is time to start thinking about personalizing holiday greetings with beautiful photos. Taking holiday photos of your family can be a lot of fun. Here are some Tips + Tricks that I use that will hopefully help the process go more smoothly.


Tip #1: Be Organized

Plan ahead by writing a list of what you will need to bring to the shoot -- camera, extra batteries, extra memory cards, props (e.g. cute knitted hats, beautiful holiday togs, special holiday decorations, lovely woolen blankets), healthy snacks and drinks for you and the little ones. After the shoot, you could use the same list to make sure everything you brought is also going home with you.

Tip #2: Know Your Kids

No one knows your kids better than you. Pick a time of the day that is best for everyone -- a time when everyone is well-fed and rested. Also, put your children at ease by engaging them in conversations and activities in which they will be interested. Play with them! Have fun! Genuinely happy kids = genuinely happy photos.

Tip #3: Un-Pose Your Family

Have you noticed that the most genuine and most emotive images are usually those that look unplanned/unposed? Hugging, kissing, tickling, jumping, running, playing...let your kids do the work. Just make sure your shutter speed is set on sonic speed (or at least 1/250 sec) to keep up with all the action.

Tip #4: Compose Your Shots

Remember my Tips + Tricks on composition? The Rule of Thirds? The Camera Tilt? Foreground, Middleground, Background? Apply these tools for visually interesting and compositionally strong group and individual images. In addition, make sure everyone in a group photo is "squished in" as tightly as possible -- try to leave as little spaces as possible between the subjects. When possible, arrange everyone in a triangular composition, with the highest point of the triangle in the middle of the composition. For individual images, try to get in close and Fill the Frame (another handy compositional tool) with the gorgeous faces of your little ones. Lastly, if you plan on inserting your images into a pre-designed card from vendors such as Tiny Prints or Minted, make sure you take photos in both the portrait/vertical orientation as well as the landscape/horizontal orientation, and/or compose your shots such that they could be inserted into vertical or horizontal or square slots in the card design.

Tip #5: Include Yourself in the Photos

Generally when I'm shooting a family, I try to get at least one really good group photo, one really good individual photo of each child, one really good photo of the parents together and one really good photo of each parent with each child. Use the camera self-timer to include yourself in the photos. Or hand the camera over to your spouse so that he/she could capture some photos of you with each of your children.   Your children will appreciate these images immensely later.

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On the other hand, if you'd rather enlist the help of a professional photographer, please email or call me for more info on our Mini Photo Session. The response this year has been wonderful, so I am hoping to add a second day of Mini Photo Sessions for those who are not able to book a slot for Saturday, October 26th. Please contact me ASAP if you'd like to be added to the list.

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My apologies for not posting any Tip or Trick last week. With a household full of school-aged children, I always have to be at the ready to deal with any ailment that may come our way this time of the year :-)

:: Photography Tips + Tricks: choosing a dSLR lens | part two ::

Happy Tuesday! I am sooo enjoying this glorious autumn weather. Perfect weather for the Holiday Mini Photo Sessions! Please email me for more information and to book a spot. Limited spots available.  Reserve your session now!

Last week, I outlined some basics of dSLR lenses. This week, let's get down to the specifics! Again, your aesthetic and shooting style will help you determine which lens(s) is best suited for your needs. Of course, these are MY suggestions; they are in no way the gospel ;-)

First, perhaps it'd be helpful to tell you what I have in my camera bag:

• Canon 5D Mark ii camera body
• Canon 50mm f/1.2L prime lens (normal focal length)
• Canon 24-70mm f/2.8L zoom lens (wide to telephoto FL)
• Canon 24-105mm f/4.0L IS zoom lens (wide to telephoto FL; IS = image stability)
• Canon 70-200mm f/2.8L zoom lens (telephoto FL)

Mind you, I rarely carry all of this equipment to my on-location shoots. As I became more comfortable with my shooting style and workflow, I figured out which lenses will give me the best results. Since I shoot mostly portraits and lifestyle images, I chose lenses that could give me beautifully blurred backgrounds as well as responsiveness in low-light situations -- lenses that have f/stop values (wideness/openness of the aperture) of at least f/2.8.

My favorite lens of ALL TIME is the 50mm.  The "Nifty-Fifty", as the 50mm is lovingly called, is a must-have. It allows me to shoot in low-light and/or indoors without a tripod or flash, while giving me the dreamy, creamy blurred background that I love. HOWEVER, remember that if your camera has a crop-sensor (beginner/semi-pro models) rather than a full-frame sensor (pro models), the 50mm will in fact act more like a 85mm in terms of angle of view and magnification.  Some photographers also like the 85mm prime lens for portraits. The 85mm is great for capturing details (close-ups of eyelashes, ears, little hands and feet), as it could work a lot like a macro lens.

All shot indoors, in low light, on the Canon 5D Mark ii with the Cannon 50mm f/1.2L lens: ISO 1600, f/1.2, 1/125sec

Canon offers three versions of the 50mm: the f/1.8, f/1.4 and f/1.2L. If you currently do not own a 50mm, start off with the f/1.8, which costs less than $150.00. If you fall in love with the f/1.8 but feel like you may want to upgrade to the f/1.4 or f/1.2, you always have the option of selling the old lens on sites such as eBay or craigslist.org. Try not to do a trade-in at your local camera shop if you could help it -- you will not get a very good trade-in value, as compared to selling the lens online. Likewise, be on the lookout for good deals on used/refurbished equipment on eBay and craigslist.org. Be sure to ask the seller why they are selling it though. Sometimes the item may not be in great working condition; make sure you check out the mechanisms and auto focus by mounting it onto your camera body to make sure it takes sharp photos in different conditions.

The other lens that I carry with me to all of my shoots is the 24-70mm f/2.8 zoom lens. This is the lens that stays on my camera most of the time for both business and pleasure. I love the range of focal lengths and the aperture is wide enough that I could shoot in low-light in a pinch, provided I bump up the ISO or lower the shutter speed. If you prefer to own just ONE versatile, all-around lens, instead of an arsenal of different lenses, a zoom lens with a low f-stop value is the way to go.

Canon 5D Mark ii with the Canon 24-70mm f/2.8L lens: 45mm, f/2.8, 1/4000sec

There isn't really another Canon lens that is equivalent to the f/2.8L, but Sigma makes a Canon-compatible lens that has received great reviews. The Sigma 17-50mm f/2.8 on a crop-sensor camera, will effectively match the magnifications of the 24-70mm on a full-frame camera. At less than $570.00, it is a great investment that will allow you a lot of flexibility and make your shooting easier and more enjoyable.

For those who do not mind a higher f/stop value, a zoom lens with f/stop value of f/4 would work almost as well if it has an Image Stabilizing mechanism of some sort. Remember, in low-light conditions, a higher f/stop value requires slower shutter speeds to allow the same amount the light to hit the sensor, as compared to a lower f/stop value. The IS feature will allow you to slow down your shutter speed to more than 1/60 (1/40, for example), while minimizing blurring due to camera shake. While the 24-105 f/4L IS does not have a low f/stop value, I still use it occasionally because it gives me very sharp images with nice, clean colors, even in low light conditions.

For the aspiring paparazzi, or mamarazzi for that matter, the 70-200mm f/2.8 might be exactly what you need. However, to be honest, I use the lens only occasionally for weddings and engagement sessions. Without a tripod or IS mechanism, the 70-200mm lens's hefty weight causes more camera/hand shake blurriness because it is HEAVY. Also, the Canon version is relatively expensive, although a similar lens by Tamron costs about 1/3 less. If I had to make a choice, I'd choose the Sigma 17-50mm over the 70-200mm any day.

If you're a careful shopper and would like to try out the lenses before you make the investment, services such as Borrow Lenses lets you do just that. You could even rent lenses for special occasions -- such as births, birthdays or weddings -- and benefit from the pro quality equipment at a fraction of the cost.

As always, if you'd rather have some one-on-one time with me, you are always welcome to contact me to schedule a private lesson.

Have a wonderful day!

:: Photography Tips + Tricks: choosing a dSLR lens | part one ::

As I mentioned last week, I generally do not recommend getting the kit lens that is usually sold with the camera as a set. Why? Because 1) the image quality is probably not going to be great (unless you are purchasing a pro set) and/or 2) the focal length range and/or aperture range may not be ideal for your needs. By choosing a lens purposefully, you are in control of the style and look of your images.

The two most important properties of the camera lens are the FOCAL LENGTH and the APERTURE.  These values together describe the lens, and are generally printed on the barrel of the lens itself.

The lens focal length (usually represented in millimeter or mm) gives us 1) the angle of view = how much of the scene will be captured, and 2) the magnification = how large individual elements will be.

The longer the focal length = narrower angle of view + higher the magnification

The shorter the focal length = wider angle of view + lower the magnification

Courtesy of Dave Black/Nikon USA

The lens aperture (usually represented in f/stop values) is the size of the opening in the lens diaphragm through which light passes -- larger the f/stop value, smaller the opening; smaller the f/stop value, bigger the opening. For instance, an aperture of f/.2 has a larger opening than an aperture of f/4, which means the f/1.2 will allow more light to pass through the lens, giving more exposure. Aperture size also affects how blurry your background will be. A blurry background will not only direct attention to the elements in focus, it could also help camouflage a messy, cluttered scene.

Nikon USA

The lower the f/stop = larger opening in the lens + less depth of field + blurrier background

The higher the f/stop = the smaller opening in the lens + greater depth of field + sharper background

Nikon USA

If you are someone who wants an all-around good lens that will do well in different scenarios, a zoom lens with variable focal lengths might be the best option for you. On the other hand, you might find a prime lens with a fixed focal length more suited to your style of shooting because 1) it is lighter & more compact, and 2) it will most likely have a lower f/stop value (f/1.2 to f/2.8), which will allow you to shoot in low-light conditions.

Please check back next Tuesday for "Choosing A dSLR Lens | Part II." I will tell you which lenses, I feel, are best for close-up portraits, and which ones are best for images that use the environment to tell a story.

Also, check back tomorrow for details on this year's *HOLIDAY MINI PHOTO SESSIONS*. I am doing them a little differently this year, so stay tuned!

:: Photography Tips + Tricks: choosing a dSLR camera ::

If you are reading this, chances are you already own a camera and are ready to 1) make the jump from a point-and-shoot to a dSLR (digital single lens reflex), or 2) upgrade your current dSLR to a model with more advanced features.

Depending on your need, dSLR camera prices range from a couple of hundred dollars to thousands. Canon, Nikon and Sony are some popular brands that offer models for pros, advanced amateurs and hobbyists.

*DISCLAIMER: I have been a Canon girl from the start, so the examples I provide are going to be Canon-centric*

For the hobbyist who is interested mostly in taking photos in social situations and while travelling, an entry-level dSLR will do the trick beautifully. An entry-level camera will most likely have a lightweight polycarbonate housing great portability but may not be as weatherproof and durable as a semi-pro or pro model. My first dSLR is the Canon T2i, which I still bring to shoots sometimes as a backup. The latest iteration of that camera is the Canon T5i, which retails for about  $750.00 (camera body only, no lens). Another entry level Canon that is popular with beginners is the Canon SL1, which retails for about $600.00 (camera body only, no lens). Nikon’s comparable models are the D5200 and D3200, respectively. Sony offers quite a large range of beginner dSLRs that are very reasonably priced.

For the amateur/semi-pro photographer who is ready to upgrade their camera to a more durable body with more advanced manual features, Canon’s 6D is the one to beat in my opinion. In addition to having a durable, weatherproof, dustproof housing, the 6D is Wi-Fi and GPS enabled. You can control the camera’s exposure settings (aperture, shutter speed, ISO) remotely from your smartphone, review images from your camera on a smartphone or tablet, and transfer files wirelessly to a storage device. In addition, you can share images with other Wi-Fi enabled devices (HDTV, tablet, cameras). The 6D also features a full-frame sensor that was previously offered only in the pro models. The larger full-frame sensor (vs. a crop sensor) has the potential to produce richer images with more depth and range. The Canon 6D retails for about $2,000.00 (camera body only, no lens).

Whether you are looking to fine-tune your techniques or thinking of starting a photography business, the Canon 5D Mark iii is, in my opinion, THE camera to consider. This upgrade from the 5D Mark ii features a 61-point high density reticular Auto Focus system that is highly accurate and works well in low-light environments. The only downside of the Canon 5D Mark iii is the price point – it retails for about $3,500.00 (!!!). The Nikon D800, at $3,000.00 a pop, features a whopping 36.3Mp sensor, allowing you to enlarge images up to 23.4 x 33.1” / 59.4 x 84.1 cm at 200 dpi, without sacrificing details and clarity.

One important thing to keep in mind when choosing a camera is this: which camera body you have is not nearly as important as the lens(s) that you use with it – especially when cost is a consideration. In my opinion, investing in a good piece of “glass” is more important than having a fancy, feature filled camera. The lens will ultimately determine the quality, look and style of your images, allowing your creativity to shine through.

So check back next week for Tips + Tricks on how to choose a lens for your dSLR! Why you should just say 'NO!' to kit-lenses!

As always, if you'd rather have some one-on-one time with me, you are always welcome to contact me to schedule a private lesson.

Camera: Canon 5D Mark ii | Lens: Canon 24-70 mm L | Exposure Settings: ISO 320 , 50 mm, F/2.8, 1/500 sec | Processing/Editing: Lightroom 5 and Photoshop CS6